Crisp and refreshing bubbly accompanied a dinner of tastes at Coi: minced beets with goat cheese, dill puree, and “rye bread” crisps; crumbed and seasoned chicken skin over a poached egg; roasted chicken supreme with porcini polenta and greens; abalone in an arugula pesto; squash cake, and bittersweet chocolate ice cream over a hazelnut shortbread with dulce de leche.